Retinol - Essential for Your Face

My colleagues will tell you that I say this often - maybe even too often - but in my opinion, there are three basic products to use without fail to keep or restore a healthy look to our faces: Vitamin C, Sun protection, Retinol.

Retinol has been used for almost 30 years in the field of dermatology. In fact, it is an active ingredient in vitamin A. It is often called the best anti-aging agent! That's saying something. So, what does retinol do exactly?

On the Surface and in Depth

Retinol works on your skin in different ways. On the surface, it unclogs and tightens the pores of the skin and reduces pigmentation spots, which has the effect of enhancing the radiance of the face and giving us a more radiant complexion. It is this cleansing action that makes retinol useful in the treatment of acne. Although it does not address the inflammation, it removes dead skin and clears the pores of impurities, thus reducing the appearance of pimples.

Deeper down, retinol is a powerful regenerator that stimulates the production of collagen and elastin. Collagen is a protein that is naturally present in the body and helps all tissues, including the skin, to renew themselves.

Elastin is also a natural protein produced by the body. As its name implies, it allows the skin to have a certain elasticity; it is what acts when the skin regains its shape after being stretched. Collagen and elastin are two components that work together to give our skin a healthy appearance.

But for them to be effective, these two proteins must be present in our body. The sad reality is that as soon as we reach our twenties, their production starts to decrease.

Variable Focus - Beware of Overdoing It!

nd serums that can contain anywhere from 0.3% to 1% or more of retinol.

You don't apply retinol as you would sunscreen! It is an active product that requires testing for skin tolerance.

Usually, it is recommended to apply as follows:

• Once every three days for two to three weeks.
• If your skin tolerates it well, you can then apply it every other day for another two to three weeks.
• If no irritation occurs, a daily application would be possible.

I suggest you take the same cautious approach with retinol concentration. Start with the lowest concentration unless you have the advice of a health professional. Collagen and elastin in our bodies diminish with age but don't skip any steps and risk irritating your skin.

Patience: The Results Will Come

Finally, with retinol - it takes up to 12 weeks to see the full effects with over-the-counter products. Think about it; we're talking about tissue regeneration, increased protein production in our bodies, lessening the signs of aging skin. Give your body time to do its job. Trust it; it will know what to do with the retinol you are offering it.

Dr. Chantal Chiasson, Dermatologist
MD, LMCC, FRCPC, CSPQ, FAAD